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But in comparison to the majority of scanners, this device’s 35mm film holder offers only one frame cutout. So you need to feed the film through the holder, thus possibly leaving fingerprints and dust on it. In fact, the model isn’t a regular 35mm slide scanner, it is more like a camera. Kodak Scanza shoots every film frame with an.
Multiple film holders allows for scanning 35mm negatives and positives, including mounted slides, as well as medium format and 4×5 film. Several frames of film can be scanned at once to speed up.

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Do you sometimes feel like your vision for a film is lost in translation? It can be a frustrating experience, but one that can be avoided (or at least minimised). Before you move on to more advanced video transitions or animatics, a solid understanding of storyboarding fundamentals will take you a long way.

Armed with a working knowledge of camera shots, angles, and perspective techniques, you’ll be well on your way to creating easy-to-read storyboards, which communicate your vision as you intended it. To that end, we've pulled together 16 camera moves and shot types to give your storyboarding vocabulary a boost.

Download a copy of this guide as a free, printable PDF

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<h2>Basic Camera Moves</h2><p>By incorporating a variety of different camera moves into your shots, you can add a deeper sense of visual interest. Combine this with a strategic approach to messaging and you'll be off to the races. As with deciding how to frame your shots, take care when selecting the most appropriate camera move. The effect that each move has can vary significantly in how it makes the viewer feel. </p><p>Here are some well-loved camera moves to consider:</p><h3>Zoom</h3><p>Probably the most well-known camera move, zooming gives the impression of moving closer or further away from the subject. It can be used effectively to magnify a certain focus point in the frame, but other moves such as a dolly, are a more natural way to show movement. While a quick zoom can help add a sense of drama and energy when used correctly, avoid over-using zoom as your default move.</p><p>Also if you're making a storyboard, Boords has pre-built indicators for Zooming (as well as a bunch of other common camera moves). Just click <code>Insert Camera Movement</code> in the Image Editor: </p><h3>Pan</h3><p>Panning is when the camera is moved horizontally from one side to another on a central axis. This is a rotating movement in which the camera’s position remains in place, but the direction that it faces changes. It can be used to follow a moving character or to fit more into a frame, for example, panning across a landscape to create a sense of place.</p><div>Making a storyboard? Show yourself some love and use our pre-built camera shot indicators.</div><h3>Tilt</h3><p>Tilting is similar to panning in that the camera is kept in a stationary position, but unlike panning (which looks from side to side) tilting focuses on upwards & downwards movements. Using a tilting motion helps to fit more into a single frame. A slow upwards tilt can be very effective in making a subject appear bigger or more significant while a downwards tilt has the opposite effect.</p><h3>Dolly</h3><p>A dolly shot is when the entire camera is mounted on a track and is moved towards or away from a subject. Unlike a zoom shot, the world around the subject moves with the camera. A dolly gives the illusion that the viewer is walking towards the subject and can be a great way of creating a sense of intimacy between them.</p><h3>Truck</h3><p>Similar to dollying, trucking involves moving the entire camera along a fixed point, but the motion goes from side to side, rather than in and out. It’s often used to follow characters in action. Mounting the camera on a fluid motion track will help to stamp out any jerking camera movements.</p><p>To add a truck indicator in Boords, just select <code>Pan right</code> from the Camera Movements menu in the Image Editor: </p><h3>Pedestal</h3><img src='https://software.intel.com/content/dam/develop/external/us/en/images/webops10433-fig6-and-header-796339.jpg' alt='Download' title='Download' /><p>A pedestal (AKA Boom up/down or Jib up/down) involves moving the camera upwards or downwards in relation to a subject. It’s different from tilting in that the entire camera ascends or descends, rather than just the angle of the camera. A pedestal shot can be used to frame a tall or high subject (such as a building) while keeping the framing at eye level view for the viewer. </p><div>Super-fast online storyboarding with pre-built shot-type indicators. Seriously, you're going to love it. Scouts honour.</div><h2>Storyboarding Shot Types</h2><p>There are many ways to frame a subject within a shot, which can range from showing their entire body to fixating on a finer detail, such as their eyes. In choosing the most fitting shot, you’ll need to bear in mind the message that you’re trying to communicate to your audience. </p><p>Here are some of the most common types of shots and how you can go about using them: </p><h3>Establishing shot</h3><p>Often included at the beginning of a scene, the establishing shot helps to build ambiance and may give a nod towards the context of what’s to come. It generally comes in the form of a long shot and indicates where (and sometimes when) the scene is taking place.</p><h3>Full shot</h3><p>The full shot is just as the name implies and shows the entire body of the subject from head to toe. This shot tends to focus more on the character’s movement and gestures, rather than their state of mind.</p><h3>Medium shot</h3><p>Also known as the ¾ shot, the medium shot typically shows the subject from the knees up. It allows the viewer to see the background environment and the character’s gestures, while still being close enough to capture their emotions.</p><div>Download a copy of this guide as a free, printable PDF</div><div>...or embed on your site</div><textarea readonly='><div><img src='https://downloads.boords.com/boords-camera-anglesthumbnail.jpg' alt='A visual guide to Camera Moves'/><p><a href='https://boords.com/blog/16-types-of-camera-shots-and-angles-with-gifs' target='_blank'>A visual guide to Camera Moves</a></p></div>

Close shot

With a close shot, the subject’s head/face takes up the majority of the frame and therefore, allows their reactions and emotions to dictate the scene. The subject becomes the prominent focus and helps the audience build a personal connection, without being distracted by background interferences.

Extreme close shot

An extreme close shot is so close that only one specific detail, such as a person’s eyes or mouth, can be seen. Because of the unnaturally close nature of the shot, it should be used sparingly, but when used appropriately, an ECS can be incredibly effective at adding drama to a scene. It allows the viewer to see details that may have otherwise gone unnoticed and can really accentuate the emotions that the subject is experiencing.

Up shot

An up shot is taken from below the eye-level of the subject and creates the perception that the viewer is looking at them from a lower perspective. This type of shot can give the impression that the subject is in some way powerful, heroic or even dangerous.

Down shot

A down shot, in contrast to an up shot, is taken from above the eye-level of the subject and can make the subject seem vulnerable or powerless.

Over the shoulder shot

This type of shot is taken from behind the shoulder of another character and typically frames the subject in a medium or close shot. It is particularly effective in group conversation scenes and helps establish which characters are speaking to each other.

What's the best way to plan your film? With a storyboard of course. And it just so happens Boords is the best web-based storyboard software going.

Two shot

A two shot presents two characters together within the same frame. It’s a natural means of introducing both people and can be used to shed light on their relationship with one another. Different variations of the two shot can be applied to deliver different messages about the characters. For example, when characters are positioned next to each other, it may give the impression that they have equal prominence within the scene.

Point of view shot

The point of view shot, also known as the POV shot, depicts an angle that shows what a character is looking at. This type of shot allows the viewer to take on the perspective of the character and begin to understand their state of mind on a more personal level.

Applying this to your storyboards

While a picture often speaks a thousand words, being precise with your language can really make the difference when it comes to storyboarding. Keep it simple yet specific, and you’ll be on track to a brilliant animatic and beyond.

What are some of your favourite shots to work with? Ever had an experience of ideas getting lost in translation? Tell us about them in the comments.

Contents

This document covers the step-by-step process for scanning film strips and slides with the EPSON Prefection V750 PRO scanner, using the application EPSON Scan. The EPSON Scan software is the same on Macintosh and Windows, so these instructions work for both platforms.

Note: If you want to scan a document or image(s), see How to Scan Documents and Images with EPSON Scan or How to Scan Using the Fujitsu Scanners.

We recommend you use a film holder, which helps the scanning application detect the negatives or slides you’re scanning. You can check out a box of film holders at the circulation desk on the second floor of the Duderstadt Center.

Be sure you have a flash drive, external hard drive, or other means of taking your files with you when you leave.

Choosing a resolution for scanning negatives and slides is a little more complicated than choosing a resolution for a normal photograph. Because negatives and slides are physically small, you need to scan them at a very high resolution so that they’ll be of good quality when you enlarge the images. This is important particularly if you’re planning to make prints of your images.

We recommend scanning negatives and slides at a resolution of 800-1200. There is a more precise formula for specific print sizes:

width of negative in inches * scanning resolution in dpi = size in pixels

size in pixels / printing resolution (usually 150-300 dpi) = print size in inches

For example, let’s say you’re scanning a slide that is 1.5 inches wide, and you choose to scan at 1000 dpi:

1.5 inches * 1000 dpi = 1500 pixels

If you take that image and print it at 150 dpi, you get a print of the following width:

1500 pixels / 150 dpi = 10 inches

As with documents and images, if you’re making a digital copy of your image for web use (like social media), you can scan on the lower end of that scale, around 800 dpi. If you intend to print your image, or if you need a high-quality archive of your negatives and slides, scan on the higher end, at 1000-1200 dpi.

Remember that the higher your resolution, the larger your file size is going to be. Depending on how and where you’re planning to store your digital images, this may also affect your decision.

Again, it depends what you’re going to do with them!

JPEG (or JPG) is a very popular and easily compatible file format. Most digital cameras save photos as JPEGs, and they’re the easiest format to share with others via email or social media. They are high quality, but not the absolute best. To keep file size down, a JPG is compressed, which will result in some loss of detail. If you are digitizing photos for a website or slideshow, this is probably what you want.

TIFFs are not as commonly used. They may not be recognized by all photo sharing sites, but will be usable by photo editing software. The file size is much larger because TIFFs are an uncompressed file format, meaning 100% of what you scanned is visible in the file. If you’re going to edit or print your photos, this may be the best choice.

Lift the scanner cover and remove the white reflective backing from the scanner cover by sliding it out from its holders.
Make sure the scanner bed is free of dust and smudges, which can show up on your scan. If it’s dirty, ask a consultant for cleaning supplies.
Place your negatives or slides in the appropriate film holder.
There are guidelines on the film holders for properly orienting the negatives and slides, but even if you load the holder backwards, you can flip or rotate the images after you scan them.
Place the film holder onto the scanner so that the white arrows are aligned with one another. There are two pegs on the right-hand side of the film holder that will fit into two small holes on the scanner bed.
35mm mounted slides in the slide holder, properly fitted in the scanner bed.
Lower the scanner cover.

Open up the application EPSON Scan. It’s the same on both Macintosh and Windows, so these instructions will work on either platform.
Under “Mode,” at the top right of the window, select “Professional Mode.” This will give you expanded options for your scanning settings, which you can adjust depending on what you want to scan.
Adjust the scan settings to your needs.

Under the Document Type pulldown menu, select Film (with Film Holder) if your negatives or slides fit in one of the standard film holders.
Select Film (with Film Area Guide) if your film strips or slides are irregularly sized. Use the Film Area Guide provided in the container of film holders. (Please note that using the Film Area Guide can give less-than-reliable results, and is not recommended unless your negatives or slides won’t fit in any of the standard film holders.)
Under the Film Type pulldown menu, select the kind of film you’re scanning.
Choose Positive Film to scan positive negatives and slides (the kind that don’t have the colors all backwards).
Choose Color Negative Film to scan color negative negatives and slides.
Choose B&W Negative Film to scan black and white negatives and slides.
Under the Image Type pulldown menu, select 24-bit Color for a color scan, and 8-bit Grayscale if you would like to scan in black and white (choosing Black and White will scan only in black and white, with no spectrum of gray).
Choose your resolution, which decides the quality of your scan. We recommend scanning negatives and slides at 800-1200 dpi – see above for more information on choosing a scanning resolution.
Click Preview.

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After clicking Preview, EPSON scan will interpret your negatives and slides and show you thumbnails of your images.
In the Preview window, you can click on a thumbnail and rotate your image or reverse it using the buttons under Frame on the left of the window. You can also uncheck the box below a thumbnail if you do not want to scan that image. All images are selected by default.
Click Scan.
In the File Save Settings window that opens, under Location, choose where you want to save your files (saving to the Desktop makes them easier to find). Under Image Format Type, choose howyou want to save your files (the benefits of JPEG vs. TIFF are discussed above).
Click OK. All the images that were checked in the Preview window will be scanned and saved to the location you specified.

You now have high-quality digital images of your photos! Feel free to edit or rename any of your files – if you need help editing a picture with a program like Photoshop, ask one of our consultants. Remember to save and take your files with you by flash drive, external hard drive, self-addressed e-mail, or some other means. Don’t forget to retrieve your negatives or slides from the scanner, and please return the box of film holders to the circulation desk on the second floor!

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This tutorial was written by GroundWorks Consultants Nora Stone and Stephen Ratkovich.